8 December 1999 - 9 December 1999 (Day 1)
On 9th December 1999 our Team arrived in Mendoza, Argentina - having flown from Cape Town via Buenos Aires. Mendoza (the 3rd largest city in Argentina) was to be the base for our trip and where we would spend much time after our climb of Aconcagua. We arrived in Mendoza at night and were met at the airport by Pablo Champagna (who would be our main guide) and Angel Tetilla - representing Inka Expediciones.
The following day was spent exploring Mendoza's numerous public plazas and densely tree-lined streets. We all took an immediate liking to Mendoza city and its friendly residents. We also learnt that very few of the local residents are able to speak any English and that it was time for a crash course in Spanish (thanks to Lonely Planet for the phrasebook). Before long we had located the Internet Cafes and had selected a favourite (Cyb@r located at Espejo 264, Mendoza) where we too would soon become locals.
10 December 1999 (Day 2) - 11 December 1999 (Day 3)
The first stop on our (167km) bus trip to Los Penitentes was to obtain the permits required for climbing Aconcagua ($80) - only available in Mendoza. The drive to Los Penitentes crossed Rio Mendoza then passed through Uspallata (95km) from where we had our first glimpses through the mist of snow capped mountains. After a stop for lunch we continued the drive - passing through the towering shattered mountains of the Andes, following the sharply cut banks of Rio Mendoza. Eventually we reached Penitentes [2580m; 8,460ft altitude] - a winter ski resort consisting of vacant hotels & hostels and closed restaurants. After unpacking we took a short walk up the grass covered ski slopes - it was good to be walking and among mountains again. Ordering supper was a language nightmare but eventually we received a 3 course meal and tea ($12 + $2) - we adapted fast and were soon good friends of the sole waiter, Ramon (an understudy for Manuel, Faulty Towers?).The following morning was spent on an acclimatisation walk along the valley in the direction of Punte del Inca. Climbing to a col [2810m] we obtained our first view of Aconcagua in the distance. After lunch ("meat with breath" = Vienna Schnitzel) at Los Penitentes, we drove to Punte del Inca (named after the natural bridge that crosses the Rio de las Cuevas) to view the sulphar baths and church. Then it was back to Los Penitentes to pack our high altitude gear into bags to be carried directly by mule to Plaza de Mulas.
12 December 1999 (Day 4)
At last the day had come for the climb to begin... We drove to the Ranger station near Punte del Inca [2950m; 9,678ft] where permits were checked and each Team member was issued a numbered refuse bag. Up the valley from the ranger station we could see Aconcagua's north & south summits. Towering scree slopes, scarred by avalanches, funnelled the path as we followed the Rio Horicones up the glaciated valley. After approximately 5 hours we arrived at Confluencia [3680m; 11,050ft] - the meeting place of the Upper Horcones and Lower Horcones Valleys that embrace the north and south face of Aconcagua, respectively. At Confluencia we experienced our first (light) snowfall. We also, at long last, met Sebastian Tetilla - the head of Inka Expediciones - with whom we had been corresponding by eMail for almost a year.
13 December 1999 (Day 5)
In order to improve our acclimatisation we included this additional day in our itinerary to allow for an "acclimatisation walk" up to Plaza Francia [4500m]... walk high - sleep low. Plaza Francia is located at the top of the Lower Horcones Valley, at the foot of the spectacular South Face of Aconcagua. The route took us across the vegetation-less alpine desert consisting of the scree covered ice of the Horcones Inferior Glacier. This forms part of a popular trekking route (definitely worth considering for the future). We all had symptoms resulting from the gain in altitude - ranging from mild "pressure" headaches to nausea and brief vomiting. Paolo continued to take antibiotics in an attempt to beat the flu he had developed prior to leaving Cape Town. Back at Confluencia we enjoyed supper in the company of 3 French climbers - Andre, Jean-Loc and Jean-Louis. That night we started to get a feel for the cold as the temperature inside our tents dropped to 1deg.C.
14 December 1999 (Day 6)
The walk from Confluencia to Plaza de Mulas was very long and uncomfortable. Our packs felt heavy, the sun was baking - the wind freezing, the path was never ending and often featureless - giving no sense of scale or distance. The scenery of towering mountains with scree slopes extending hundreds of meters high kept our minds occupied during the monotonous trudge across the rugged, barren landscape. After a walk of some 9 hours we eventually arrived at Base Camp, Plaza de Mulas [4230m; 13,784ft]. We were all exhausted. Supper that night was a surreal experience... On the one hand we had alphabet soup and Vienna Schnitzel (at +4200m above sea level!)... on the other, we heard news of two Spaniards who had been injured by a rockfall high on the mountain. One of the climbers had broken both legs, but been helped to safety, the other, suffering from a head injury, had wondered off and was missing. Feelings were confused as one looked at the mountain, outlined by stars and glowing in the moonlight, knowing that there was someone up there on their own - while the temperature, within our shared tents, dropped to 3deg.C.
15 December 1999 (Day 7) - 17 December 1999 (Day 9)
At 2h00 we were woken by cheers as the news came that the missing Spanish climber had been found. The temperature of 4deg.C at 9h10 rose to 14deg.C by 9h20 ! Breakfast was enjoyed sitting outside in the sun. The rest of the day was spent relaxing at Base Camp, playing "boxes" and charades - and preparing for the acclimatisation walk the following day. Our Team enjoyed supper with Peter and Evert - Inka clients returning from their summit bid. The acclimatization walk, on the 16th December, involved carrying crampons, food and fuel to Cambio de Pediente (Camp Alaska) [5212m; 17,100ft] before returning to Plaza de Mulas [4230m; 13,784ft]. This was also the first time any of us had used our plastic boots (Scarpa Vega) for any length of time and on mixed terrain of scree, rock, snow and ice. The upward journey took 5 hours - the return only 1,5 hours ! An attemt to glissade failed due to the soft snow and risk of injury.Paolo, due to his illness, was advised to remain at Base Camp and went on a walk to Hotel Refugio and the Horcones Superior Glacier. Paolo visited the medical station and was given more antibiotics. He & Catherine also had their OS (oxygen saturation) levels taken (PZ=86%; CO=90%). For supper we were joined by Andre, Jean-Loc and Jean-Louis (the French climbers) as well as Peter and Evert. The 17th was a rest day used for packing and preparing gear. The medical station became a popular destination - to have OS levels measured (DR=89%; PZ=89%; GMK=88%; DZ=87%). Some of the Team went with Pablo on a walk to the Hotel Refugio [4370m] and across the frozen glacial stream to watch ice climbing on the Horcones Superior Glacier. The evening was spent playing charades, cards, brain-teasers and eating pizza for supper! It had been an excellent, relaxed day and the Team had bonded very well - ready for the big ascent.
18 December 1999 (Day 10)
The Team set off for Camp 1 at midday. Our guides, Pablo Champagna and Ruben Aveiro "Khalil", setting the pace. Our backpacks seemed excessively heavy and the going was slow. We arrived at Camp 1 (Plaza Canada) [4877m; 16,900ft] after about 4,5 hours of continuous zig-zagging up the scree slope. Paolo was breathing with difficulty due to the effects of flu and only arrived with Khalil an hour later. The wind was pumping as the sun set. The outside temperature was 2deg.C at 20h25, and by 20h30 had dropped to 0deg.C.
19 December 1999 (Day 11)
The climb from Camp 1 to Camp 2 was again a continuous zig-zagging route over scree and some areas of snow. At an altitude of over 5000m, Paolo realised that his being ill was going to make reaching Camp 2 impossible and that progressing any higher would be both potentially dangerous and become a logistical problem for the Team as a whole should he nead to turn back. In discussion with Pablo & Dion it was decided he should therefore return to Base Camp. Pablo used the 2-way radio to contact Base Camp and arrange for Paolo to be met by Kata (the Base Camp co-ordinator & cook) on his way down.The rest of the Team continued the climb, passing Cambio de Pediente [5212m] where we had deposited our crampons and some supplies during the acclimatisation walk. These had to be added to our already heavy packs (Dion's pack, with tent & poles - and many extras that should have been left behind - weighed over 20kg).
Eventually we arrived at Camp 2, Nido de Condores, [5365m; 17,600ft] - it had been a tiring and stressful day.
20 December 1999 (Day 12) & 21 December 1999 (Day 13)
We welcomed the morning sun after a cold night, with the temperature falling to below -6 deg.C inside our tents. The climb from Camp 2, Nido de Condores, [5365m; 17,600ft] to Camp 3, Berlin Refuge [5950m; 19,520ft] provided for another exhausting day. A climb of 600m that would normally take 50 minutes in Cape Town (almost sea-level) had taken about 3 hours. Arrival at Berlin is marked by the welcome sight of timber shelters that appear as one crosses the crest of a ridge. Although the shelters were in good condition, one had been filled with blown snow and the other, higher up where we camped, was to be used for cooking and therefore not ideal to sleep in. It was therefore necessary for us to set up the tents (North Face Expedition-25) according to our well practiced routine that we had developed by then, before collapsing in our sleeping bags.The 21st was to have been our first Summit attempt day. It had been a night of little sleep. The wind roared like a jet engine all night and we had to go out and check our tents' fixing at 2am. The night temperature, in our tents, dropped to below -10 deg.C. A Summit attempt that day was impossible due to the weather. Sleep was also not an option as the wind tore at our dome tents shaking them and flattenning them till the bent poles touched our heads, even when lying down. We resorted to tearing up Catherine's notebook to create 52 playing cards (each of us drawing one of the suits). We went to "bed" early hoping the wind would die down and thinking about the coming day and the climb ahead...
22 December 1999 (Day 14)
The 22nd December was a perfect windless morning. We were up at 3am to prepare for the climb and by the time we headed out of camp the sun's rays were sufficiently close to the horizon for us not to need our headlamps. The view through our goggles (Oakley A-frame with Gold Iridium lenses) was stunning. We could now see over almost every one of the surrounding Andes mountains that had towered over us just days before. Extreme effort was required to walk, even slowly. We reached Refugio Independencia [6546m; 21,476ft] (the highest alpine refuge in the world) and collapsed for a brief rest and to put on our crampons. From here the route progressed up a steep snow covered slope then crossed the Cresta del Viento (Windy Crest) before traversing the Gran Acarreo (a vast scree field). The traverse incorporated a long walk across a steeply inclined snow and ice field where losing ones footing would have serious repercussions and we felt the stress during the crossing. The traverse, however, was just the start... this brought us to the Canaleta - a 400m (1,300ft) high chute filled with loose rock. We progressed up the right side of the Canaleta zig-zagging up the snow and ice covered part of the slope, then the scree & talus, for 4 hours!
Eventually we reached the top of the Canaleta - ariving at the Cresta del Guanaco - a ridge connecting the lower South and higher North Summits. After 10 hours of walking we were exhausted and concerned about the time and energy reserve available for our descent to Berlin. Without much discussion, Graeme deposited his backpack and headed toward the North Summit accompanied by Pablo. Derek, Catherine and Dion continued slowly with Khalil, but after some 5 meters decided to halt. From the ridge, Graeme's slow progress could clearly be seen - and it was only later that we realised that his crampons had been left with his bag and that he and Pablo were having to cut steps in the ice as they climbed the slope towards the summit.Success! Graeme and Pablo reached the North Summit of Aconcagua [6960m; 22,835ft] - the highest mountain in the Southern and Western Hemispheres! After taking photographs and pausing to rest they carefully returned and caught up with the rest of the Team that had moved down and was waiting at the bottom of the Canaleta. The return journey took all our available concentration as we were exhausted and stumbled about, being buffetted by strong gusts of wind. Eventually we reached Camp 3 (Berlin) and collapsed into our tents where we remained, without supper (not having had a proper breakfast and no lunch), until the next morning.
23 December 1999 (Day 15)
Even though it was downhill all the way, the 1720m descent from Berlin Refuge [5950m; 19,520ft] to Plaza de Mulas [4230m; 13,784ft] was very long - both in time and distance. As we got lower down the mountain our speed increased - then decreased again as we reached a balance between greater oxygen availability and our sheer exhaustion. Our feet took a battering as we pounded down the mountain in our rigid plastic boots often losing our footing as our minds reached a zombie-like state. As we rounded the ridge bringing Base Camp into sight Khalil pointed out the remarkable sight of a large South African flag firmly fixed to the walls of our mess tent - Paolo had prepared for our return. We stumbled and slipped (negotiating the ice "penitentes") into Camp - we were pleased to be "home". Supper was a celebratory affair - with Kata's excellent Vienna Schnitzel topping the menu. Our 3 French friends had returned the previous day - only resting at Camp 3 before heading all the way down to Base Camp. They had had varying degrees of success, but at best had reached the bottom of the Canaleta. We could be proud. We had ALL done very well - and done briliantly as a Team!
24 December 1999 (Day 16)
A nightmare day - the "Walk of the Living Dead". We were determined to be in Penitentes for Christmas Eve so we could not afford to spend an extra day resting at Base Camp. Walking for 32km from Base Camp (Plaza de Mulas) [4230m; 13,784ft] to Punte del Inca [2950m; 9,678ft] on the harsh scree surface was torturous. We had to force ourselves to get up each time we stopped for a water break - eventually we chose rather to push on without taking the much needed breaks. As if the path wasn't enough of a challenge, we had to cross the icy Rio Horcones twice (this nearly became a swim for more than one of us). Near the end of the trail we were passed by the mules laden with our gear and a muleteer leading a mule bearing an sick climber from Norway. When we reached the Ranger station Catherine was asked to apply her professional medical skills in diagnosing the the medical condition (she had previously been asked to assist another climber when ascending to Plaza de Mulas). Once we had checked out at the Ranger Station we were driven by Pablo Tetilla to Penitentes where we had Christmas Eve dinner with our French friends and Pablo Champagna - all of us clean and (the guys) shaven.
25 December 1999 (Day 17)
Christmas Day, 1999 - Penitentes (2 years prior it was Summit Day on Kilimanjaro). Presents were distributed among the Team before departing by bus for Mendoza. As on the up-trip, we stopped in Uspallata for lunch and to buy some souvenirs, then again when crossing the Rio Mendoza - to take photos from the bridge. The bus journey seemed to be as dangerous as the climb itself. We had to stop repeatedly to tie down our bags when we saw them take off and hover like a kite at the end of the ropes that supposedly kept them strapped to the roof. We did, however, eventually arrive at the Crillon Hotel in Mendoza - with all our bags. Those that still had some energy and could supress the pain felt in their feet went for a walk to get ice-cream. Later we had Christmas dinner at Restaurant Sarmiento - where we were invited to have our photo's taken in the kitchen - a great honour.
26 December 1999 (Day 18) - 3 January 2000
The remaining days in Mendoza were spent exploring the city and relaxing. We enjoyed the entertainment, and shopped at the market, at the central plaza, Plaza Independencia, with its fascinating fountains. A bus tour, on the 27th took us round the Parque Gral.San Martin, up to the Monumento Cerro de la Gloria and to the Jardin Zoologico (zoo). Visiting the zoo was probably the low point of our whole trip. The small enclosures & cages and lack of attention to the animals needs left us all feeling very depressed We had supper at Tinaja again - along with Pablo and the Frenchmen. Later we played pool with Pablo then stopped for ice-cream at Ferruccio Soppelsa (0h27) before heading back to Crillon, to show Pablo Graeme's summit photos - stunning!On 29th Graeme and Derek departed for Buenos Aires - where they would meet up with Geoff (who climbed Kilimanjaro with us in 1997). Catherine , Paolo and Dion migrated to the Petit Hotel. The next two days were spent visiting the Cyb@r, curio shops and the Museu de Fundacional (history of Mendoza). The evening was spent going to the Cinema along with Fabiana (who works at Ferruccio Soppelsa). The Millennium New Year's Eve dinner was celebrated at La Chagra restaurant where the popping of champagne corks was drowned out by fireworks. To say that New Year's Day was started with a hangover summarises the events of the rest of the night. By the 2nd Jan 2000 we were ready to exercise again and we undertook a very long walk around Mendoza visiting each of the many plazas distributed around the city. That night we enjoyed supper with Fabiana as well as Angel & Violetta Tetilla.
We hired mountain bikes on the 3rd in order to complete our coverage of all corners of the city. This proved to be a very successful mode of transport and was both fun and efficient. Pablo and Sebastian Tetilla met us later at the Petit Hotel and handed us our certificates - recording our success on Aconcagua. Later we had supper with Pablo (and his friend Milagros) before having to say goodbye to our guide and good friend.
4 January 2000 - 6 January 2000
Catherine and Dion departed from Mendoza to meet up with Graeme and Derek (and Geoff) in Buenos Aires. Paolo chose to stay in Mendoza an extra day. Buenos Aires is a massive, densely populated city. With little time to explore it, we focussed our attention on the Centro, Retiro (harbour) and Recoleta districts - visiting Plaza de Mayo, the Obelisco and night-life areas (of the Recoleta). All the sight-seeing and partying left little time for sleep. At 5h30 those already sleeping, back at the youth hostel, were woken by the energetic returning to replenish their wallets!Finally it was time to return to Cape Town - Dion, Catherine & Paolo on the 5/6th Jan 2000 and Graeme & Derek on the 9th January. The view of Table Mountain from the aeroplane was both a very welcome sight and provided a good rounding off to the trip. "Noord... Wes... Tuis Bes"