Darwin Glacier, starting up Ice Window, south face of Mt Kenya

It’s hard to imagine a more intriguing high altitude rock climb as Mount Kenya. While most volcanic mountains play host to dangerously loose rock, the stone you’ll encounter here is solid, with a multitude of incut holds to keep the enjoyment levels high and the difficulty moderate. Climbers have a choice of routes and season. During early December- March the Shipton route is at its best, which leads to the Nelion summit of this twin peaked mountain. From June-September the North Face Standard route is the optimal way to reach the summit of Batian, the mountain’s other summit. Both offer outstanding climbing.

Mount Kenya is as the phrase goes, “a mountaineer’s mountain.” There are no easy ways up this extinct volcano. It has the same allure as such legendary peaks as the Matterhorn, standing isolated as it does above the surrounding alpine landscape. It sits in the center of what is referred to as Central Highlands in an ecologically diverse environment that rivals Mount Kilimanjaro and in fact contains more wildlife. Bizzare plants, such as the giant groundsel, senesias, and lobelia, are unique to the area and the Mount Kenya National Park is home to such wild and wooly creatures such as the Cape buffalo, elephants, a variety of monkeys, species rich birdlife, and more.

Technical climbing ascents of various routes to the summits of Batian and Nelion. Here is a truly alpine experience in the heart of Africa. This entails climbing at about grade 15 (5.7).

The usual itinerary is as follows :

• Day 1. Depart Cape Town /Johannesburg and arrive Nairobi. Either spend night in Nairobi, or, proceed directly to a lodge near the base of the mountain.

• Days 2 - 5. Leisurely walk-in and period of acclimatisation. This usually includes a circuit of the main peaks and Point Lenana (the"trekkers summit").

• Days 6 - 8. Three days set aside for the climb. There is a "weather day" just in case. If the weather is fine on all three days, and you have sufficient energy left, we will also climb Point John.

• Day 9. Descend mountain.

• Day 10. Return to Nairobi for afternoon flight back to Johannesburg.  

        
Where: We follow either the Sirimon, the Chogoria, or the Naro Moru route to our base. After an ascent of Point Lenana we climb Batian.

Routes guided recently :

• The Ice Window; (this route is currently in very poor condition)
• The Normal Route.
• The North Face Standard Route
• SW Ridge of Batian

When: During the dry seasons. mid December - mid February, or September - mid October .

Requirements: Before being accepted onto a guided trip prospective clients are requested to submit a climbing resume, or join one of our leaders on a week-end of climbing in the Western Cape or Drakensberg.

Personal equipment: Clients supply own boots, clothing and sleeping bags.

Price: on application.

This price includes: airfares, transfers from airport to mountain and back, accommodation at Naro Moru River Lodge before and after trip, porters, tents and all meals on the mountain, technical guiding on the mountain.

Excluded are : visa costs, airport taxes, drinks when off the mountain.